Dior creative director Jonathan Anderson unveiled a new aesthetic for women’s ready-to-wear on Wednesday, showing his take on house classics such as the bar jacket at one of the hottest tickets in a packed season of designer debuts.
Anderson joined the LVMH-owned label in March, and showed menswear in June. He is part of a new generation bringing change to the luxury industry, which faces a prolonged slump.
Famous for its nipped waist, Anderson's bar jacket was loosened, with added volume at the back and paired with a pleated mini skirt that also jutted out behind.
The look set the tone for "a bold new chapter" at the brand, said Simon Longland, director of buying for the fashion department at Harrods.
"The show was a collection of contrasts—couture against everyday ease, femininity with androgyny, covered versus sheer," he said.
The show, held in the Tuileries Gardens, started with a fast-paced film, showing images from the label's past but styled like a black-and-white horror film.
The models then strode onto the runway. They paraded mini skirts paired with long, wool capes covering the shoulders and arms, suit jackets worn with high collars, dresses that opened in the back and lightweight knit ensembles. Jeans were slim or ample, barrel-legged style, while coats had high collars.
After the show, guests, who included K-pop stars Jimin and Jisoo, as well as actors Jennifer Lawrence, Johnny Depp, Jenna Ortega and Mickey Madison, gave a standing ovation as Anderson took a quick bow.
