Models marched down a sparse set lined with towering mirrors parading high-waisted latticed leather trousers, sleeveless t-shirts and striped overshirts, sweaters with zig-zag motifs and trim, bomber jackets in leather.

Some wore roped sandals that exposed bare feet, while others had ankle boots in glossy leather or crocodile skin.

Bags were roomy, in canvas with leather straps, matching the browns and beiges that dominated the colour palette. Silk bandanas with a fringe completed the outfits.

The audience clapped loudly and cheered when Nichanian popped out for her bow, smiling broadly.

Paris Fashion Week, which included shows from Kering-owned (PRTP.PA) label Saint Laurent, LVMH's (LVMH.PA) Louis Vuitton and the highly-anticipated debut of Jonathan Anderson at Dior, winds up on Sunday.

A number of high-end labels have brought on new designers as the industry seeks to woo back shoppers who are tightening their purse strings in an uncertain economic environment.

Hermes (HRMS.PA) menswear designer Nichanian, however, has been in her position since 1988. Hermes, which caters to the ultra-wealthy with exclusive handbags like the Birkin, and has outpaced rivals.